WantsToPetYourKitty

joined 1 year ago
[–] WantsToPetYourKitty@lemmy.world 27 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

Always call the closing attorney's office before initiating the wire transfer on closing day. Back when I closed, I called their office and did a read-back on the wire information they had sent to make sure it was genuine. Once that money is wired there's no take-backs

Well I mean actuaries are like savants. Years ago in uni my calc III college prof was one. Amazingly sharp dude. Do I think insurance companies over-generalize their risk assessments? Yupp. Do insurance companies likely ignore their actuaries and set premiums to make outrageous profit? Probably.

Disclosure: I hate insurance companies. Also that professor was super weird

[–] WantsToPetYourKitty@lemmy.world 0 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (3 children)

It's funny that even though theft rates have plummeted since the mass software upgrade, premiums have stayed high. They have savant-level mathematicians (actuaries) evaluating risk and even with compelling data showing otherwise, they choose to keep labeling these cars high risk and continue to charge exorbitant premiums.

It is exactly as you describe!

119
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by WantsToPetYourKitty@lemmy.world to c/homeimprovement@lemmy.world
 

I made a post previously on having rot behind a soffit and many of you gave me great advice on how to proceed in fixing it the right way.

This weekend I worked nonstop and got most of everything fixed. I removed part of soffit and cut the rafter tail to expose the area and quickly identified the problem - no kickout flashing

I cut out the rot on the sheathing and patched in plywood. I ripped the siding off all the way up to the roof to expose all the step flashing - this involved removing both the vinyl siding and the original composite siding. Working from the bottom upwards, I laid down new house wrap. I fabricated a nice piece of kick flashing to go on the end of the run.

Then I installed a nice piece of counter flashing over the step flash, then finally another layer of house wrap partially overlapping the cFlash.

I then installed pressure treated furring strips for the vinyl siding and reinstalled the siding. Here's the siding going over my kickout flashing.

With that done I repaired the rafter tail and replaced all the rotten fascia board, then reinstalled the soffit vents.

Now I'm in the process of installing drip edge before the gutter goes back. Due to poor roof installation, the underlayment doesn't extend down far enough to overlap my drip edge, so I'm having to cut 2.5" wide tarpaper strips and splice them in underneath the existing underlayment edge. That way the drip edge will be covered.

[–] WantsToPetYourKitty@lemmy.world 8 points 1 year ago (1 children)

You were correct. It was indeed an improperly done piece of kick flashing at the very bottom near the gutter

[–] WantsToPetYourKitty@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

No diverter is present there at all. There's a bunch of things going on here that could be causing this problem and I think it would be best to address all of them at once:

  • No diverter
  • No drip edge present along gutter, and I've seen water drip from soffit vents. It's possible water is coming into the damaged area from where the soffit meets the wall
  • Vinyl siding was installed over original wood composite. It's questionable whether the step flashing is effective given the setup
  • Gutter potentially too small - I have to clean it out like 6 times a year even with gutter guards over most of it
[–] WantsToPetYourKitty@lemmy.world 7 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

Good point on the rafter tail. I'll look in the attic in that area to confirm.

Yeah there's flashing above there and it's possible this is the source of the leak.

I'm afraid what I'm going to have to do is take all the siding off above here to expose the flashing and inspect it and repair. Then to remove and fix the rot I'm gonna have to take everything apart to get into that area behind the soffit - remove the gutter, fascia, etc to gain proper access

 

Hey folks, looking for some advice because I don't know how to proceed.

This house came with vinyl siding and I noticed rot under it. The rot terminates up high behind where this soffit meets with the exterior wall. I need to get in here to figure out how water is getting in and then make necessary repairs, but the soffit is really in the way.

I've already removed the rot lower down - I had to remove vinyl siding, a layer of foam board, a layer of rotten OSB, the original rotten siding, and the original rotten sheathing. All of those layers are still present behind this soffit.

When I take the soffit vent off, there's a layer of OSB directly above it. Really don't know how to gain access here.

Any ideas?