chrischryse

joined 1 year ago
 

I foudn this program https://www.thearmoredgarage.com/ and just wondering if anyone has any experience with it and if it's worth buying or not?

 

Is there software that will automatically cut large STLs based on the printer you have or is cutting something you just have to do manually?

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 8 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

I agree, I'll be honest that's why I use these apps. Because when I'd try to just talk to a girl in person and be friendly I get the sense they think I'm either being creepy or want to get in their pants. When I'm just an introvert just trying to start up a conversation lol

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 9 points 1 month ago (16 children)

what was meant to be used then?

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 7 points 1 month ago (22 children)

But how exactly does it work when applying for something like a credit card or going to a doctors office and filling out a form? Because here in the US those ask for SSN

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 0 points 2 months ago

Ah that makes sense not really familiar iwth this stuff so didn't think it's that intensive lol

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 0 points 2 months ago (4 children)

Really? I thought they were free and didn’t affect bandwidth.

 

When would be good times to use the organic supports and the snug supports on Prusaslicer? I know organic is good for small parts but like I can’t find anything that says what snug and organic is more optimal for

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 1 points 6 months ago (1 children)

Ah ok I'll look into that then as long as I can put it on thick that should work.

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 2 points 6 months ago (3 children)

Is that moldable?

 

I accidentally sanded my print a little too much, I don't want to reprint it since it took 12 hours, is there something I can use like clay or putty that I can apply to readd the rounded art that is sandable and that I can put primer on and paint over?

 

Is there a recommended nozzle size for masks and helmets? Like is 0.4mm good, or would something like 0.6mm be better since the print will be big.

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 1 points 8 months ago

That’s too much time and I just don’t have time for it unfortunately

 

I've been doing a lot of research but a lot of the stuff I find is about recycling filament scrap yourself and making it a new spool which I would love to do however I don't have the time or the space to do that. Are there services that recycle PLA, PETG, and TPU I'm in the US.

Heck I'll even send someone the scrap if they want to recycle it themselves.

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 2 points 9 months ago (1 children)

why do you avoid sanding?

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 4 points 9 months ago (1 children)

I'm interested in doing it for figures/busts and cosplay parts

 

Since I got back into 3D printing I really want to fix up my prints now with sanding and coloring. Would airbrushing or traditional painting (paint brush) be better?

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (1 children)

Ah thanks for the input....I didn't think about all spools spinning the samed until you mentioned it so I just decided to print the individual rings that I would put the bearings in then I'm gonna put them on a metal rod.

Also not sure you would know, would i be fine printing the bearings to use or should I get metal ones

[–] chrischryse@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago

I have silica packets

13
submitted 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) by chrischryse@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

I'm thinking of making a dry box for my printer, however I have some questions:

  1. Will using PVC pipe as a "roller" (if that's the right word) that I'll place my filament spools on be good enough? Or do the spools need to go on something more concave? Maybe I can cut some grooves for the spools to sit in? I know there are dry boxes that use like holders that you screw in, but I want to limit the amount of holes in the box.

  2. Does filament have to be spaced or can I put the spools in the box to where there is no gaps but they can still move freely?

  3. Does it matter if I use M6 or M10 pneumatic couplers to feed the filmanet through or is it just personal preference?

4
submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by chrischryse@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

I ran a selftest and the manual test and the X-axis keeps failing. I don't know why.

I tried:

Re-lubing

adjusting the X-axis belt

Adjusting the cables

I've had no luck with anything :/

Edit: I've watched a video and the extruder just hangs on the left side it for most the time it doesn't go left then right, right aaway

Edit 2: I found the issue that I completely overlooked cuz I was annoyed...the bearing was sticking out somehow

 

I have a Nevermore filter with 24v fans, would it be fine to connect them to the parts that I have circled on my Prusa MK4?

Or is that dangerous?

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