bees_knees

joined 1 year ago
[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 1 points 1 year ago

Medaglia d'oro espresso in a 1 cup moka pot. I like it better than bustelo since it's 100% arabica.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 2 points 1 year ago

Feel free to make whatever you'd like, but I see no reason mead posts can't go in homebrewing. I don't make mead, but still would find the posts interesting.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 4 points 1 year ago (1 children)

If it's brand new, I strongly recommend passivating first with citric acid. Soaking in citric acid removes free iron at the surface, then the chromium will react with oxygen in the air to form a protective shiny barrier. I didn't passivate my kettle first and got a small buildup of iron in the trub and some slight staining. It's not a big deal and the beer is totally fine, but I still would do it if I bought another one. I just let it soak in acid, then wipe it clean with a paper towel (while wearing gloves) and let it air dry. Citric acid also removes beer stone from kettles and is pretty cheap.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 2 points 1 year ago

Idk my cat is just an asshole, and I keep him out of the basement so he doesn't steal my o-rings.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Some people also call them Jerry cans. Here's an example on Amazon. I think they were originally made for water storage. cube

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 4 points 1 year ago

The historical significance of anchor is really neat. It's everywhere in San Francisco. Reminds me of Narragansett in Rhode Island.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 2 points 1 year ago

Actually I'd suggest buying hop plants. They are more established than rhizomes, so you will get hops sooner! I bought mine from great lakes hops I think and I would recommend them. I currently grow teamaker hops.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 4 points 1 year ago

I've been no chil brewing for about 5 batches now and have noticed no ill effects. In fact, I've made some of my best beers. The only thing I don't like is that cleaning the cube is a bit of a pain in the ass, and I don't have any surplus hot water to clean my pump and kettle with. I think I definitely end up using a lot less water overall though which makes me feel good. Water is cheap and plentiful where I am so that isn't a huge deal, though I do like the saved time during brew day. I'm trying to make my IPAs more bitter anyway so that part doesn't bother me.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I've made some very clear beers with no chill with no whirlflock/Irish moss. I don't notice much of a difference.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 2 points 1 year ago

Nice. You might be able to cut your boil time way down if you wanted. Maybe a pain if you are already dialed in with your system efficiency and whatnot though.

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)

8oz is a huge dry hop charge. Sounds good. No boil hops?

[–] bees_knees@sopuli.xyz 2 points 1 year ago

Yeah I do like a little Munich in a standard IPA or pale ale, but I don't think double IPAs need much more than a darker pale malt. I think you are correct about stirring but I'm too lazy. Just going to make a slightly smaller batch next time.

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by bees_knees@sopuli.xyz to c/homebrewing@sopuli.xyz
 

Edit: I don't think my direct image upload worked: https://postimg.cc/tZS8wf04

I've given the name "hybrid IPAs" to IPAs that were sort of the pioneers of neipas. Think Heady Topper, Focal Banger, Julius, or Pliny the Elder. The Alchemist is my main inspiration. These beers are much more bitter than a NEIPA, are loaded up with sulfates, may or may not have oats/wheat (I'm choosing not to add any), and aggressively dry hopped. I love me a good NEIPA, but I have decided I want to brew a more west coast style NEIPA. This is my first iteration and was brewed with the leftover hops and Kveik I had on hand.

After a few days in the keg, this beer came out nicely but still isn't quite where I want it. I was a little under on my efficiency and ended up at 7.5% abv. I think it is a little too bitter for the fruity hops used. It needs something a little more dank to hold up to the bitterness. It could use to be a bit punchier as well as far as the hop bill is concerned. It's hoppy, but not quite the same hop saturation I am looking for. Over time I've come to believe that chlorides are overrated. Load up on sulfates in all IPAs if you ask me. The nose is mangos, pears, and orange, and the finish is like bitter tang in a good way. Even though it's bitter, it's remarkably easy to drink. This keg won't last long.

Next time, I will be using verdant ale yeast and a different mix of hops. Likely Simcoe, ctz, and Amarillo, maybe some citra. I also got some cryo Amarillo which should add some real kick to the dry hop.

Recipe for this beer:

Double IPA

8.2% / 17.7 °P Recipe by

All Grain

BrewZilla / RoboBrew 35L 68% efficiency

Batch Volume: 5.47 gal (Kettle) Fermenter Volume: 5 gal

Boil Time: 60 min

Mash Water: 6.45 gal

Sparge Water: 1.08 gal Total Water: 7.53 gal Boil Volume: 6.22 gal

Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.056

Vitals Original Gravity: 1.073

Final Gravity: 1.014

IBU (Tinseth): 153

BU/GU: 2.10

Color: 6 SRM

Mash Temperature — 149 °F — 60 min

Malts (13 lb) 13 lb (92.9%) — Thomas Fawcett Pale Malt, Maris Otter — Grain — 2.8 °L Other (1 lb 8 oz) 1 lb (7.1%) — Sugar, Table (Sucrose) — Sugar — 1.3 °L 8 oz — Briess Rice Hulls — Adjunct — 0 °L Hops (12.13 oz) 1.83 oz (71 IBU) — Magnum 11.2% — Boil — 60 min

1.5 oz (43 IBU) — Idaho #7 12.5% — Boil — 20 min

1.5 oz (25 IBU) — Mandarina Bavaria 7.2% — Boil — 20 min

1.5 oz (9 IBU) — Idaho #7 12.5% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

1.5 oz (6 IBU) — Mandarina Bavaria 8.5% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand

4.3 oz — BRU-1 14.9% — Dry Hop — 2 days

Hopstand at 176 °F

Miscs 2 g — Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) — Mash

12 g — Gypsum (CaSO4) — Mash

0.43 g — Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) — Sparge

2.6 g — Gypsum (CaSO4) — Sparge

Yeast Kveik Blend 75% Fermentation Primary — 68 °F — 14 days

Carbonation: 2.4 CO2-vol Water Profile Ca2+ 140 Mg2+ 0 Na+ 9 Cl- 48 SO42- 277 HCO3- 9

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