alleycat

joined 9 months ago
[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 3 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

The german language has two words for "owl": "Eule" and "Kauz". I'm a native speaker, but I had to look up what the difference is (Wikipedia/Deepl):

"Eule" means "owl".

"Kauz" also means owl, but specifically the small, fat and grumpy looking kind:

Various bird genera and species from the family of true owls (Strigidae) are referred to as [Kauz]. The differentiation between the terms "Eule" and "Kauz" is a peculiarity of the German language and has no equivalent in terms of zoological systematics. [Eule] are generally rather elongated, slender bird species, whereas [Kauz] have a stocky, large-headed shape

[Eule] are considered thoughtful and wise, whereas [Kauz] are considered clumsy, eccentric and reclusive.

That's literally it, it has nothing to do with biology. So the correct translation would be "grumpy-looking goshawk owl". ๐Ÿ˜‰

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 3 points 3 weeks ago

Yes, and even the bridge is amaranth!

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 3 points 3 weeks ago

I just used standard alcohol-based varnish. Tbh I when I started this build, I didn't even realise it would do that. ๐Ÿ˜…

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 5 points 3 weeks ago

Those are standard (albeit fancy) "french eye" tuning pegs from Thomann Germany. The endpin is in the same style. Maybe for the next instrument I will try to make them myself.

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 8 points 3 weeks ago

I wish. Lutes are an entirely different beast. Definitely on my bucket list, though.

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 4 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (1 children)

Have you adjusted the speed settings according to what the manufacturer says? LW-PLA can only be printed at a very low speed or else it clogs. It also needs constant speed. For example for colorfabb LW-PLA, I had to set all speeds to 40mm/s.

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 9 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (2 children)

So far I just use a baroque bow. I work on a cherry bow from time to time, but it's quite difficult.

And here is a Quick vocaroo where I play a few notes on each string.

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 15 points 3 weeks ago

That's probably because they're closely related. Every region in Europe has their own variation of a small, pear-shaped, three-stringed instrument. There's the Russian gudok, Bulgarian gadulka, Spanish rabel, and so on...

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 2 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago)

I think the masked-off area is easy to spot: https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/54tFPFbmKaSG/yV5SGVL56BsQtuSTgzIKTsIDRqGYX8BS2B2hUrTR.jpg

The body got an alcohol-varnish and the fingerboard is oiled. Worked pretty well.

I posted the full build here: https://lemmy.world/post/19796054

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 15 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Some more pictures: https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/74Y5rFAEvU6a/afMM0LsVKKoqI9KKHRUi7ho2OiW71hpcdms2s855.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/kYtdGhyJVJd1/JAA5ZIkT4MsoWMh8dHZNkKNOxaVF5v3Cks5gf3AV.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/GzrLz8EzEaS4/PmPKfYsIXGSBt6lWInIHYijSHNvh58ImBetmNa0E.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/TW9Hkf4NUhUq/YZc23WDam09zSWGSPk0Ihfs0vVtwCD58FjBAs4ki.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/cAYN8g2AvNdd/ZyKweMnzykfKzn8AGcEkqtulUyLOggRgOZd0M3AM.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/ifvTAHkI3dEN/ZOc8cxcapxI5qi3ca59oxzNmDA3JzXJMry4WTJrU.jpg

 

Most parts are cnc-carved. The body is usually carved from a single block of wood, but for my cnc, I split it into three parts, including a decorative strip of amaranth.

Vibrating string length 29.5cm (3/4 violin). Strings are Aquila F-Red superior tension, G-D-A.

Materials used: maple, spruce, amaranth, ebony.

Some build pics: https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/p0WyoXm7hbXQ/8UuyIqEgB7QXTob7l3gnyINpnnoAdVXPuFSdwCU3.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/W0pwDFUugibK/796cZ7IMdFWwtGAqbxV8o5aX6FDZA0MY7pn7srWu.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/cGr758rOlcKG/wYshSIstTgNVQeD9SP3JnV1HWJMBxFVBIiUaau9w.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/MAAlUaDPI6w3/MZkE6pilc8pzFtGL6iS9AVoM927gEPhzVZsiehC9.jpg https://pxscdn.com/public/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/54tFPFbmKaSG/yV5SGVL56BsQtuSTgzIKTsIDRqGYX8BS2B2hUrTR.jpg https://pixelfed.social/storage/m/_v2/632520794410387667/586f75268-5004eb/DJXZ42HTD65o/VG81W50MWzUfITDaw7Yt35qHHe5wXw7ZJs4pLLOo.gif

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 0 points 1 month ago

AI generated Spam.

[โ€“] alleycat@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago (2 children)

I'm now doing the hide glue method. I did a test piece and oil doesn't seem to penetrate the hide glue at all.

 

I have a workpiece that I want to give an oil finish, but a certain area needs to stay oil-free, because I need to attach a part later on using hide glue. What masking method is safe for oil?

 

I need to drill holes at exact positions to affix large workpieces to my cnc for two-sided machining. My drill press is not large enough to reach all drilling positions, and drilling by hand often results in a non-90ยฐ angle. I know for metalworking there are magnet drill presses to drill holes in steel beams. But is there something similar for wood?

 

Just a test for my new CNC machine. I got the file from here: Scantheworld and turned it into a relief using ZBrush and Photoshop. The wood I used is cherry and the sice of the carving is roughly 60x50mm.

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