Thurkeau

joined 1 year ago
[–] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Looks like I may be going back to an all metal hotend. I had some decent luck with a Creality Spider, though I've found that it isn't in production and the choice of nozzles limited to pretty much the 04 nozzle that comes with most printers. What's the CR-10 all metal hotend that is popular and useful and with a good variety of nozzles?

[–] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago (5 children)

While I know I'm not going to get SLA level detail (which I have given up on for now as I keep busting the LCD of my resin printer every set of prints) I am still hoping I can get to something recognizable, usually at 3x size for the figure, which I could do with the CR10 head and the Spider. Problem is, haven't been able to even begin to dial in the calibrations, which is what I'm asking for assistance with. Where is a good place to start my tests at?

[–] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

I do use a dryer on most, if not all of my filament, so I know it isn't that. Thanks for the tip, though. I literally have a Sonyu dryer with the extrusion nipple of both the top and bottom drilled out to 1/2 inch to get rid of the moisture. I'm able to get it down to 25% humidity at 40c or so inside, and I'll leave it for days before I print. Same results.

[–] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Why? Those are the best ones.

[–] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Looks good, though adhesives are notorious for failing once they get warm a few times, and will fail eventually. I would totally put a couple of screws holding them up. Beyond that, love the setup.

 

I just changed my stock Ender 3 hotend to a Volcano to get back to a more durable printhead after wrecking my Creality Spider head and have gotten it to where I can print something monolythic (like a brick or boot dryer type thing that doesn't have much actual detail) without much issue, but printing something with any detail, such as a character piece for DnD results in an absolute whispy disaster. I'm still trying to print stock recommended speeds and stock temperatures (PLA at 200C, PETG at 240C, etc at 50 to 75mm/s) and retract from none to 9mm trying to find something that works. Nothing does so far, even when I go to playing with temps (PETG 200-260C, PLA 180-240C) Where should I set my baseline settings to be able to get close to the CR-10 head that I started with? I originally upgraded to the Spider, which is now discontinued, because of printing ASA and the CR-10 creating a lot of jams as the bowden tube degrades inside. I have also heard good things about the Volcano and was curious about them. I'm still running the stock extruder, btw. I'm betting my problem is simply that I don't know how to use this head yet, though I guess I could have gotten a dud.

[–] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Are you using a sledgehammer to drag your cauldron like in the Getting Over It game?