Jtskywalker

joined 1 year ago
[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 2 points 6 months ago

I got the EIBOS one on Amazon. Not sure it is that different from the Sunlu and others that have been mentioned but it works fine for me. I had a very humid house, lile 60%+ in the summer. I had a lot of problems with petg and even pla before I got that box and none after. We just moved and new house is thankfully normal humidity, but I'm still using it

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 2 points 6 months ago (1 children)

Or kids who have trouble remembering that kitchen cabinets and drawers are actually not indoor climbing walls

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 3 points 6 months ago

Yeah I've never had a missing driver problem with a windows install since maybe windows 7. I even moved a hard drive with a windows 8 install from an Asus laptop with an Intel cpu to a custom build desktop with a ryzen cpu without having to change any drivers. I did have to reactivate windows because of the hardware change but that's it.

The included drivers are often providing less performance than updated ones from the vendor though, so it is recommended to download those in some cases, specifically nvidia. But most gaming laptops will have a vendor provided update center to manage all of that for you.

I like Linux over windows for a lot of reasons but this post is a bit silly.

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 1 points 6 months ago

If that's for a whole pie that's dirt cheap. If that's for a slice then that's some expensive pie.

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 9 points 6 months ago (3 children)

Some still are. Bigelow I think.

But loose leaf tea is much better quality anyway and avoids the issue of what's in the bag entirely. They also have ceramic filters so you can completely avoid having plastic in contact with hot water

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 3 points 7 months ago

Debian on a base model 2013 MacBook air checking in. Runs better than it ever did on Mac OS. Battery life is still fine. I did have to use proprietary drivers for some things (wifi and webcam) but other than that it was pretty much plug and play.

Lots of replacement parts are on ebay for cheap, and there are a lot of repair tutorials on YouTube (and piped.video) I replaced keyboard and trackpad cheaply, and some of the internal cables.

As far as drawbacks, if you have to replace the storage or or logic board, those are expensive. I have a sound issue which I haven't been able to fix and from searching around it looks like a logic board would be required. Bluetooth headphones work fine though so I'm just dealing with it.

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 2 points 8 months ago

Oh sweet! I haven't heard of that one. I'll check it out

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 3 points 8 months ago

Draw is great, and I've been able to use it for most of what I used Acrobat for before, but it has issues with converting certain documents, especially when they have special fonts. Also there's the issue of not being able to just fill out some fields and then share it back as a PDF

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 6 points 8 months ago

I'm not opposed to paying for software, especially if it's good. I'll try that out and see how it is. Thanks!

 

Pretty much all of the PDF readers I have tried will work for form filling, however I have some similar issues with all of them.

I mainly use Okular or Atril.

Issue 1 is when filling out multiple fields in a PDF, it becomes extremely slow, to the point of typing some text, and having to wait for 5-10 second for it to show up and I can continue.

Issue 2 is that both Okular and Atril will insert the text with a much larger font size and/or different font than the document. Even in cases where the fields have some pre-populated text, if I touch the field, the font changes. Sometimes the change is significant enough that the text is not readable, or makes surrounding elements not readable.

The best way I have found that works is to use FireFox. The form filling in that works fast and doesn't mess up the fonts, but the way FireFox handles saving PDFs is tedious. I can't just click ctrl+s to save, as it prompts me to choose a location to save at and makes me overwrite the original file every time, rather than just editing it in place.

Is there any PDF reader that people are aware of that does not have these issues? Or is this something that is weird with my setup?

I'm running Debian 12 with the KDE Plasma desktop environment

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 1 points 11 months ago

Good tip - I don't have a runout sensor installed so I was not aware of this

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 1 points 11 months ago

I need to do that - I haven't finished fully calibrating everything. I still need to calibrate flow and pressure advance as well. The current settings are pretty good for print quality so I haven't messed with it much but the last few prints I have noticed some issues with dimensional accuracy that affect tighter tolerances

[–] Jtskywalker@lemm.ee 2 points 11 months ago (2 children)

I use Cura 5.4 and the only changes I made were to the start and end gcode for the machine (per the guild I linked). After that, I did a few prints with my regular profiles, then started cranking up the speed a little at a time. So really the only setting I changed was the print speed and start / end gcode.

The printer handled everything else - honestly it feels a little like magic to me, even though it's just software. I'm a software engineer so I feel like I should have a better grasp of it, but printer firmware is pretty far outside of the type of work I do. One thing I do know is that Klipper manages acceleration itself and doesn't use the acceleration gcodes sent from the slicer - those get ignored and Klipper decides how fast to accelerate (this is configurable using moonraker or the config files).

I think the thing that makes the most difference in letting you print at higher speeds is the input shaping. I don't understand all the inner workings, but it using the processing power on the raspberry pi to compensate for the vibration of the printer, letting you print much faster without getting artifacts in the print that affect quality. Here is some info on that

I'm sure there are a lot of slicer and Klipper configurations that I can do to improve things even more as well

 

Finally got my hands on a Raspberry Pi 4. I installed MainsailOS and I followed this guide and got Klipper set up and running in a few hours.

I literally doubled my print speed in the slicer settings, which is giving me a 30-40% reduction in print times and the print quality is actually better at the same time... The only concern I have now is how the whole table vibrates when printing so fast 😅

Managing the printer through the moonraker interface on Mainsail is really nice. I also set up Obico for remote monitoring away from home with an old webcam.

The issues I had during setup were pretty few, but I'll list them here:

  • The USB webcam I had did not work at all out of the box, but that was quickly fixed by installing Crowsnest - after install the camera (Logitech C270) was working perfectly
  • After installing Crowsnest, the camera worked, but the web interface was no longer connecting to Klipper - I found out this was because I set up my Raspberry Pi with a non-default username, and the Crowsnest installation had apparently updated my moonraker.conf to look for Klipper in the default location. Just had to update klippy_uds_address: /home/pi/printer_data/comms/klippy.sock to have my username instead of pi
  • The last problem I have is that I'm having so much fun printing at turbo speed through the slick web interface that I'm burning through my filament too fast and I need to order more soon.

Next on the list is a Raspberry Pi cam (the Logitech C270 is on its last leg) and some LED lighting to get a better view of the prints.

It really feels like I got a whole new printer. I am really impressed with it and I would definitely recommend to anyone with a cheaper Marlin printer and at least a little bit of Linux experience.

 

We have had a Macbook Air (A1466) laying around for years after it became useless due to not getting any more updates so modern browsers wouldn't run, etc. etc.

Today I decided to dust it off and install Ubuntu - that all went great. No issues with wifi drivers or anything. The only issues I am having are that I have no audio input or output (only device available is "dummy output") and no webcam.

I'm not really sure where to start. I have used linux before, but it has been years (Ubuntu 11 or 12 was the latest I ever touched).

Any suggestions?

EDIT:

This is what I get from running lspci -V

00:03.0 Audio device: Intel Corporation Haswell-ULT HD Audio Controller (rev 09)
	Subsystem: Apple Inc. Haswell-ULT HD Audio Controller
	Flags: bus master, fast devsel, latency 0, IRQ 73
	Memory at b0a10000 (64-bit, non-prefetchable) [size=16K]
	Capabilities: [50] Power Management version 2
	Capabilities: [60] MSI: Enable+ Count=1/1 Maskable- 64bit-
	Capabilities: [70] Express Root Complex Integrated Endpoint, MSI 00
	Kernel driver in use: snd_hda_intel
	Kernel modules: snd_hda_intel

00:03.0 Audio device: Intel Corporation Haswell-ULT HD Audio Controller (rev 09)
	Subsystem: Apple Inc. Haswell-ULT HD Audio Controller
	Flags: bus master, fast devsel, latency 0, IRQ 73
	Memory at b0a10000 (64-bit, non-prefetchable) [size=16K]
	Capabilities: [50] Power Management version 2
	Capabilities: [60] MSI: Enable+ Count=1/1 Maskable- 64bit-
	Capabilities: [70] Express Root Complex Integrated Endpoint, MSI 00
	Kernel driver in use: snd_hda_intel
	Kernel modules: snd_hda_intel

 

I've been using gyroid infil almost exclusively since I first tried it.

I was using cubic before, which was fine, but gyroid seems much sturdier for the same % infil even if it does take a bit more print time.

Also it looks awesome.

 

This just happened for a second time.. I'm running octoprint on a windows desktop computer that lives next to the printer (no raspberry pi for me yet).

Twice now, it has disconnected mid-print. The printer and PC are both online and physically connected. Disconnecting and reconnecting in octoprint works, and I have been manually checking the last gcode sent successfully in the terminal and copying the remaining code out of the file from there and printing that - it works but if it has been disconnected for a while before I notice, the spot where the extruder was sitting gets a little melty and there are some artifacts in the print.

Is there any octoprint plug in that can automate this process so I don't have to manually edit the gcode? Or any tips on preventing disconnects?

I'm pretty new to this whole world of 3d printing and even newer to octoprint so I may be missing something obvious.

Thanks!

 

I made this case to hold an arduino uno for a project I wanted to wall mount.

There are posts inside the case to hold the board in place with space behind it for all the sensors and wires I needed, and a 9V if you don't have too much else. The lid has posts that come down and meet with the ones on the base to hold the board securely.

I also included a snap fit base that can be wall mounted with screws or command strips so I could have easily remove the arduino for updates without having to take it out of the main case.

 

Found this great model on printables: https://www.printables.com/model/441984-skateboard-holder

Printed in PETG with 50% gyroid infil. I did 3 perimeters and that seems good for the regular skateboards. If I hang my longboards I will use more perimeters I think.

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More fun with TPU (i.imgur.com)
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Jtskywalker@lemm.ee to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

Printed this low poly snorlax model with 0% infil using Amazon basics TPU.

Model is at printables: https://www.printables.com/model/318081-low-poly-snorlax/files

I printed at 50% scale for a tiny one

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