3DPrinting
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So the thread in the aluminum was stripped?
There’s a few options that might work. Threadlocker isn’t really epoxy or glue. I’d the thread is merely loose, it’ll keep it from coming out with vibration.
Another option is straight up epoxy- but this would be hard to undo.
Possibly, the best option would be to re-tap the thread. You might be able to get an m4 tap and clean it up with that.
If that doesn’t work, or it’s already that far gone, you could probably go up to an m5, though that would weaken the extrusion more than intended.
If you do want to try re-tapping, avoid the trap of buying tap and die sets. Just get the individual pieces you need (the chuck/holder thing and a the m4 or m5 tap.) a cheap set will still be more expensive than high-quality taps in the 2-3 sizes you actually wind up using.
(Also, general note 1/8” smooth rod is in every hardware store, and a die is much cheaper than 1/8” thread and usually looks neater, unless you need it fully threaded.)
Okay, I have no clue what I'm doing but I did look up a little bit on tapping and think I might be able to try that. Of all the threads to strip I think I may have gotten lucky. The screw doesn't seem to do much other than keep the metal plate from sliding up and down (though I may be wrong) so I'm not too worried about strength I think.
What do you mean about the rod? Is this to buy a rod, cut it to size, use a die to thread it, and screw that in?
Is this a "good enough" tap? Looks like I'd need to get a wrench for it too?
Imo for a single job, I'd prioritize getting some tap magic over worrying about tap quality. For aluminum, tap magic makes a big difference.
I'm starting from no knowledge here, so all advice is great! Do you mean this stuff? Or should I get the aluminum version?
The aluminum version would be preferred, but what you linked will do just fine. I can't find a small tin of the aluminum version on Amazon, so don't bother overspending on a large container.
If you are going up a thread size, make sure you get the appropriate drill bit. You need to drill out the hole before tapping. M5 usually calls for a 4.2mm predrill.
So the stuff about the 1/8” rod is… just a general fabrication tip.
If you’re ever reading a bill of materials and they call for threaded rod- which is unfortunately common for a lot of printer groups- you can almost always use the same size smooth rod if you cut thread on the ends with a die.
It saves money (threaded rod is smooth rod with threads cut the full length,) and it looks neater. (A drill and some sand paper and a bit of scrapped t-shirt cloth doped with green buffing compound will make it shiny, even.)
What the other person is saying about tap magic, is just to use lubricants while cutting. 3-in-1’s og is my go to. Tap magic is a similar brand. You can get by with wd-40 if you have to.
all it’s doing is helping with temperature, and making cleaner cuts since it lubes every thing (the cutting edge still bites, but it doesn’t bind as much with the chips.)
The other thing to remember is that every turn or half turn, you should break off the chips (the metal coming off,) by backing off a quarter turn. This helps keep the cutting head free making a neater thread.
Other than that there’s no reason to be intimidated by any of this. For this, you can probably just cut the m5 thread, but you’ll want to predrill what ever bolt’s standard bore size is, and be sure to keep that square and straight as you do.
The uxcell is a “cheap” brand, for a one-time thing it’s fine but if you find you use it more and it’s getting frustrating to use… it’s lost its edge and is dull.
Thank you!!! I have a fear that this is the start of the dark dark path of having a full workshop.